The Bayou Gardener
November 22, 2014, 03:06:52 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: SMF - Just Installed!
 
   Home   Help Login Register Chat  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Disc harrow help  (Read 3814 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
crazygardener
Top Gun
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2070



WWW
« on: March 21, 2011, 06:01:05 PM »

Well after deep plowing with the middle buster, I went over the whole place with the disc harrow today. Trying to break up the dirt.  Anyway, I don't know if these disc's are set right.  The front set curve to the outside, and the bac sets (gangs?) curve to the inside.  Also, the front sets touch in the center.  Is this right?  also, when I get through breaking the gound up, and get ready to set my rows, I would like to use this kinda like hippers.  don't I need either turn the front ones around, facing the same direction as the back ones?

crazy
Logged

Dragonfly
Moderator
Top Gun
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2716



« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2011, 06:29:52 PM »

You have them correct for disking....front and back turn opposite (out-in).  Now for hipping you might be able to adjust the upper rod on your 3 pt hook up so as to lift the front and lower the back (i.e. extend that upper rod as far as possible to tilt the front gang up and back gang downward.  This may work for hipping rows.....depends on how much adjustment your upper rod will allow. It is unlikely to do the job of a dedicated hipper....but may be enough to mound up a row.  Good luck.
Logged

Jennings, LA (Zone 8b-9a) Retired Research Engineer [Getting use to it]
Kubota L3240, 5' Bushog, 5' KingKutter II tiller, Homemade Hipper & Middlebuster, cultivator, 50 gal sprayer
IH Farmall
Top Gun
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 603



« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2011, 07:55:42 PM »

Yep....what they said.

I used my disk to mound up and mark my rows before I got my row-builder/cultivator assembly.  Adjust your top link to raise the front gangs up to let the rear gangs do all the work and you will build beautiful rows in no time.  The great thing about using the disk is that if you mess up all you have to do is go over the spot again.

Play with the adjustments on the top link and the adjustments on the gangs until you find that "perfect" spot.


Tim
Logged

Tim (Redneck Rescue Ranger)
Lewisburg, Mississippi
Zone 7b
1954 Farmall Super C
1952 Farmall Cub
2010 Mahindra 2816 with FEL
2011 Kubota BX2360 with 60" deck
Craftsman 17 inch rear tine tiller
5 foot Big-Bee Finish Mower; 5 foot Kodiak rotary cutter; 4 foot United box blade, 4ft 12x16 disk harrow;
4 foot Sicma tiller; 14 inch County Line Middle Buster,
Single row cultivator with bedder attachment; 4 foot spike tooth drag harrow
Allis Chalmers Planter
Earthway Planter; Boom pole
30 gallon spray rig; 300 pound spreader/seeder
Big B
Top Gun
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1044


« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2011, 03:32:12 AM »

Crazy,

How big of an area do you go over with that middle buster?  I was just wondering.

I'll give you guys and idea. I have several implements left over from my cattle raising days, one being a pasture renovator. It looks like a cultivator with no spaces for passing over a row. The shanks are spring loaded. It hit me a couple of years ago to try it on breaking the ground before disking. It worked great. I have been using it ever since.

It will go as deep as you tractor can stand. I have a Massey 135 and I can stall it down with no problem. Once I get it set I run in second gear if possible and the dirt goes flying.  Sometimes I will go over the spot twice. If I feel like the rough ride I will go cross ways.

Next I take my disc, as you are talking about and make a pass. One pass does it sometimes. Then I straighten out my disc and make a pass to level it up. The final step is to take my old 14 ft spike tooth section harrow and get it level enough to play ball on it and then lay out my rows.

If you could find a good used pasture renovator at the right price you might want to pick one up. Like I said itís great for that first pass before disking.

Logged
bordercollie
Top Gun
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2066


sw Madison county, central Mississippi


« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2011, 06:33:06 AM »

Hi Crazygardener, If you are disappointed it the way your disc is turning the ground, you could add some  plywood and set some weight on top of it. It looks like the angle frame would hold it and then add something like heavy cinder blocks etc. This is what I did when I lived in central La and had a light disc- until then it would just float across the soil. Just a thought about what I had to do to get better results.    judy
« Last Edit: March 22, 2011, 06:38:31 AM by bordercollie » Logged

southwest Madison County, Central Mississippi   (out from Jackson)
Zone 8A
Tinbender
Grasshopper
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 98



« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2011, 08:00:42 PM »

 If you want a smoother surface adjust those cutter(serrated)discs more square with the rear tires of the Tractor. You can also adjust the Top Pin licks. I know what what is all about (Trail and error) I have also roped Lighter Knots to the rear of of the Hare ( Not good on the Eqiuip) Them Bearings will start siezing
on Ya.
Logged

Massey Ferguson 135
Troy Bilt Horse
Disc Harrow
Middle Buster
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!